What Happens in the Account
Quick answer Tishani Doshi travels to Antarctica aboard the Russian research vessel Akademik Shokalskiy and comes back thinking in geological time.
This is a first-person travel account by Tishani Doshi, describing an expedition to Antarctica organised by an environmental network for students and educators. She travels aboard the Russian research vessel Akademik Shokalskiy from the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia, Argentina, crossing the notoriously rough Drake Passage to reach the continent.
Arriving on the iceThe journey takes 13 days from Madras to Antarctica in total, and the crossing itself impresses on the narrator the sheer scale and difficulty of reaching the continent even today, with modern transport. Once there, she is struck by Antarctica's overwhelming physical presence — not as a static, frozen wasteland but as a place with its own dynamic, active geological history.
Two hundred million years compressedShe recalls a geology lecture given on board by a scientist, which explains that all of Earth's landmasses were once joined together as a single supercontinent, Gondwana, roughly 650 million years ago. Gondwana began to break apart around 500 million years ago, eventually separating into the continents we recognise today, with Antarctica settling at the pole. The lecture also touches on the possibility that Earth once experienced periods when the entire globe was covered in ice — the Snowball Earth hypothesis.
Standing on the continent, she experiences something the essay calls thinking in terms of geological time — a scale so vast that ordinary human history becomes almost imperceptibly small, and the essay repeatedly returns to this feeling of being made aware of the planet's deep past.
The scientists and the missionShe describes meeting a wide range of scientists on the voyage — biologists, geologists, foraminifera specialists among them — each pursuing narrow, specific research questions that together build up humanity's understanding of climate change and the planet's history. One especially memorable figure studies foraminifera, tiny organisms whose presence or absence in sediment layers can reveal ancient climate conditions.
The essay is explicit about Antarctica's role as a kind of ground truth for climate science — ice cores drilled from its ancient ice sheets preserve a direct physical record of the atmosphere from hundreds of thousands of years ago, making the continent essential to understanding both the planet's past and its likely future.
A warning for the futureThe account closes on a note of concern rather than pure wonder. Doshi reflects that Antarctica, despite its remoteness, is not immune to human-caused change — rising global temperatures threaten its ice sheets, and the essay ends by asking what kind of world will exist for future generations if humanity fails to act on climate change, framing Antarctica as both a scientific treasure and an early warning system for the whole planet.
- Tishani Doshi travels to Antarctica aboard the Russian research vessel Akademik Shokalskiy, crossing from Ushuaia, Argentina, over the Drake Passage.
- The full journey from Madras to Antarctica takes 13 days, underscoring the continent's remoteness even with modern transport.
- A geology lecture explains Gondwana, the supercontinent that existed around 650 million years ago and began breaking apart roughly 500 million years ago.
- The essay introduces the Snowball Earth hypothesis — the idea that the entire globe was once covered in ice.
- The account ends on a note of concern: Antarctica's ice sheets are threatened by climate change, and the continent serves as an early warning for the planet.
